The Sushi Book - a book review


by Ernie Yap, Nov 24, 2007 | Destinations: Japan

The Sushi Book

Author: Celeste Heiter

Photography: Marc Schultz

 

This is a very painful book to read. Yes, I made the agonizing mistake of turning its pages on an empty stomach. The sexy sushi pictures and accompanying enthralling descriptions were too much. The gastric juices oozed out freely. And noisily.

 

            Tuna sushi (maguro) Yellowtail sushi (hamachi), salmon sushi (sake), halibut sushi (hirame), scallop sushi ( hotategai), raw shrimp (ama ebi) - gastronomic beauties all. And prepared in various styles; sashimi, nigiri, makizushi, gunkan, temaki, etc. Without sounding too much like ‘Bubba' from Forrest Gump, rest assured that those terms are backed up by artistically prepared close-ups and genuine in every way. But you have see (or taste) them to believe them.

 

            Though one might walk past the ubiquitous sushi bar today as might a McDonald's outlet, nothing could be a more tragic thing to do. In The Sushi Book, the author brings us to see sushi making and eating as an art form; which is not stretching reality at all; for sushi is indeed an integral part of Japanese culture. What Ms Heiter claims as ‘Japan's greatest gift to mankind,' sushi is indeed a gourmet that is worth a book not only by virtue of its diversity and flexibility but its beautiful simplicity.

 

            Despite all that, the origins of sushi were humble. I was surprised to find out that sushi does not even originate from Japan; but was actually a form of fish-curing technique from Southeast Asia! Yes, it is that sort of book; serious and playful at the same time.

 

            For some westerners, eating sushi is an adventure. And it should be. From entering the sushi bar to placing your order to tasting the morsel, you are embarking on a culture crafted by a tradition that spans generations. Sushi etiquette is exhausting and may intimidate the beginner; and the author spares no details. (Celeste Heither is a Californian who has spent considerable time in Japan herself). ‘Don't spear a sushi with your chopsticks'. ‘Never lick your chopsticks'. ‘Never wipe your face with the oshiburi towel'...etc. Hopefully after this book, you won't be committing as many faux pas as you used to. I know I wouldn't...hopefully.

 

            Even if you don't like sushi to begin with but are merely intrigued by it, this book is still for you. The chapter ‘Extreme sushi' describes the bizarre and outrageous. Naked sushi, for one, is served on the bodies of naked women. Fugu or blowfish, is a sushi bar rarity which is super expensive and also contains a lethal poison. To quote Ms Heiter; ‘Only in Japan'.

 

            Apart from how to eat, it is vitally important to know where to eat. Disappointed by your first sushi bar experience? It is helpful to know how to spot the strengths and weaknesses of an establishment. Knowing a few Japanese words wouldn't hurt either. The Sushi Book provides all these and more.

 

 

            Ms Heiter tells us about the rigorous, samurai-like discipline that is needed in honing a sushi chef. Thankfully, she also included a chapter on how to make your own sushi at home; without the punishing course under the steely glare of the shokunin, or sushi master. What to buy, how to assess quality, freshness and how to store the ingredients; it is idiot-proof, I think.

           

            In summary, from sushi beverages to sushi anecdotes, The Sushi Book serves its title well; and is an excellent guide to lead the sushi-curious to be sushi fans as well as to elevate the sushi enthusiasts to be Sushi Connoisseurs.